Kilns
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Kilns are fired with anything that will give heat. Fuels from animal dung to solar energy have been used successfully but the most usual are wood, coal, oil, gas and electricity. The last is certainly the easiest, although more expensive. Kilns probably started as just fires lit under and around a heap of dry pots. Holes in the ground were used to achieve higher temperatures. The simple up-draught kiln, where the heat simply traveled up through the ware and out through the top of the kiln, served the Western potter for centuries, but in the East the down-draught kiln, which allowed heat to build up as the flames were drawn down through the work and out through the chimney at the back of the kiln, meant that much higher temperatures could be reached. The technology of today allows the use of alumina and silica spun into blankets or compressed into boards to make kiln walls.
Oxidation and Reduction
The potter has the choice of two atmospheres, oxidation and reduction, inside the kiln. The two kiln atmospheres have a crucial bearing on the final appearance of the work. Oxidation means firing with adequate air to allow good clean combustion. In reduction, the kiln is starved of air by adjusting the air intakes and flues. If the combustion is to continue, it must take oxygen from somewhere, and so if it cannot draw it in from outside the kiln, it will take the necessary oxygen from the oxygen in the clays and gases. This results in iron-bearing stoneware clay bodies turning warmer and speckled in a typically reduction-fired look. Electric kilns do not take kindly to a reducing atmosphere, while wood and coal are not easy to handle, especially at the high temperatures. It seems sensible to settle for the very extensive range of effects that an oxidizing atmosphere can give from an electric kiln, or use gas or oil to achieve reduction.
Recording Temperature
Electric devices, such as pyrometers can be bought for measuring the temperature inside the kiln. You can use specially made pyrometric cones of compressed materials similar to those used in glaze making to record the temperature in the kiln. They are made to melt when they reach predictable temperatures. You can buy a whole range of cones to suit any temperature requirement. Usually three or four cones in a row are used, one designed to melt before the temperature required, to give warning, one to melt at a hotter temperature so we know we haven't over fired. As the temperature may vary from one part of the kiln to another we often use a couple of rows of cones set in different parts of the kiln in front of the spy holes in the kiln door. This way we have warning of under-or over-heating.
Lastly, when the kiln has fired and starts to cool down, do not be in too much of a hurry to open up and see results. In stoneware and porcelain it helps to let the temperature drop very rapidly just after the firing has ended by opening all the spy holes or fire-box doors. When the kiln is really getting cool, that is the time to avoid cold air getting in to crack the pots inside. Complicated changes are taking place in the clay body from approximately 600 ºC downwards, and the kiln should be left undisturbed until below 200 ºC, when it can be opened up, a little at a time.
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